Andrew Aigner-MuehlerChapter 23..End of my first year in China
August 20th 2009 05:10
It is the second week in July, and it is the end of my my first years teaching experience in China. I must say, i feel bad. Within literally 5 minutes of finishing my last five classes on the Friday i had left the school with my bags and was in a taxi to the railway station to get a bus into Beijing where I had planned to stay the night before catching a train to Shanghai the next day. I could not get a hard sleeper so i had to settle for a hard seat, I even booked six days in advance. The train is fairly much a express train only stopping twice. The train which was jam packed all the way from Beijing to Shanghai with passengers who could not purchase a seat standing in the aisles or where ever there was space. Don't ask me why anyone would want to stand for thirteen hours on the train and to make it worse it was a overnight train, but they did. I had reached Shanghai at lunchtime on the Sunday after leaving saturday night. Thankfully I was met by a friend and helped with my luggage to the hostel where I had booked at. The Captain hostel in Fuzhou Street. Even so the hostel had bad reports on hostelworld.com about the service, I could not find anything wrong, it is just a typical Chinese run hostel, the Chinese just doing their job. Though the hostel was quite pricey for drinks and internet, but all you have to do is go to the 24 hour shop next door. That afternoon we had time to check out a few art museums around People Square, which was a good time killer.
Shanghai is a city that did not appeal to me that much in the first place. The reason for going to Shanghai was to go to Hangzhou, and also to see the skyline off the city. You may think that is sad but I have a thing for skylines. With Hangzhou it is a nice city, but as a tourist, you could not spend more than a day there, you will find yourself visiting the park, which is splendfully beautiful. The park is around a 20 to 30 minute walk from the railway station, which is fairly easy to get to (you can't get lost). Do not be shy to take a one hour gondola ride on the lake. It will set you back 160rmb which you split between four, thought if it is only the two of you, you can barter down to 80-100rmb, though again it aint that hard work to barter down. The gondola ride is one of the most relaxing and beautiful things that you will probably do in China. Do it!
It is best to get the train back to Shanghai from Hangzhou as the buses do not run that regular. Train number D5652 departs Hangzhou at 17:30pm getting back to Shanghai at 19:17pm costing 63rmb. It is a fast express train.
Now to the skyline shot of Shanghai which was suppose to be the highlight of my trip there, even so it was still impressing, but due to the work being carried out on the Bund, you are not able to get a descent view. I had to climb up on a cement wall to get a half descent shot.
You are able to go from one side of the river to the other side by paying 50rmb and that is travelling by a light rail train (Bund Sightseeing Travel Train) which goes under the river through a tunnel obviously. Though do not expect much, but it is quite a good laugh at what they tried to do. From there, it is around a 10 minute walk or so to the Jinmao Observatory 88 tower which is the tallest building in Shanghai and China at 340.1 metres standing 88 floors. It will take 45 seconds to travel upto the observatory deck. It will cost you 88rmb. You will swear by the tower with the big red ball is taller that is dominating the skyline more than any other building is much taller than the Jinmao tower but it aint.
To me I think Shanghai is a bit of a let down, with things quite overly priced compared to the rest of China hence why the wages are little bit higher there. Going out to dinner and also lunch is not like the rest of China, with the food not that good. If you are like me, and using Shanghai as a stopover for a few nights to break up your journey to Hong Kong, be aware to allow an extra 15 to 20 minutes to clear customs. You are more likely to catch the train T99 or T99B. Do not enter the main part of the station, just to the left of the entrance is the sign and gate for the train to Hong Kong. It is a long journey so it is best to have something to do, also good to travel with someone else, play a game of cards while having a few drinks (bottle of vodka does the trick with orange juice) and then finish up in the bar in the restaurant carriage, you are guaranteed to meet up with other foreigners as the train is full of foreigners. After this, this should be enough to send you asleep and before you know it you will awake when there is around an hour to go to get to Hong Kong. That is if the train staff do not wake you up wanting to strips your bed and get ready for their next journey. The train to catch again to Hong Kong is T99 departing at 18:24pm arriving into Hong Kong at 13:50pm the next day costing 458rmb for a hard sleeper.
On arrival into Hong Kong, you again have to clear customs, and will take you around 30 minutes to clear. It will feel more like you are in an airport rather than a railway station. A taxi from the railway station in the main part of the city around Nathan Street will set you back $HK50. though they will initially say more. You may also find you will have an over friendly taxi driver, they will suggest and help you with things but do not listen to them that much as they will say Hong Kong is unsafe and it aint. I got the feeling from my welcoming and other moments in Hong Kong that they did not welcome the handover that much and still do not. Many of the hostels are apart of guest houses. I suggest staying at the Kowloon New Hostel which is part of USA hostels, for a twin room with air-conditioning, TV and ensuite it will cost you $AUD26 per night per person. Though the rooms are quite small, but they are quite cozy and still are relaxing after a long day and evening touring HK and the surrounding islands. The staff there are also quite friendly, though the building does not look much from the outside or with in the corridors. The hostel is well situated with the airport express and the subway at its doors. The hostel is situated just minutes from bars, restaurants, the star ferry and many shops. The hostel is located in the Mirador mansions complex.
The subway in Hong Kong starts from $HK8.50 even for a very small journey, and are quite busy during peak times. While in Hong Kong, day trips to the outlying islands are strongly recommended.
The island of lantau is great for beaching. The island of Macau has only the one beach, and it is a fair way out of the city, probably a hour on public transport, and the it aint worth going to, the beach is very dirty with strong rips. Cheung Chau has two very popular beaches and are probably the best for beaching and swimming, and finally peng chau has a beach but it aint good for swimming though it is around a twnety minute walk from the ferry.
With the prices of getting to them, they are quite cheap. Going to Macau it will cost you $HK132 each way with First ferry departing from the Kowloon side. With Cheung Chau it will cost you $HK22.50 one way, Lantau $HK13.50 one way and Peng Chau $8.50 one way.
As mentioned if beaching Cheung Chau is the pick of the islands to go to, though if you take the wrong turn coming off the ferry you will have atleast an hours walk to the beaches though it aint a waste of time as it is quite a scenic and lovely walk, but you better have a bottle of water with you, you will be sweating it out. If you walk straight ahead coming off the ferry, you will only have a 5 minute walk or so to the main two beaches.
If you are used to the sun in China, BE AWARE of the sun in Hong Kong and around, it is much more stingy and dangerous, you will burn quite quickly and without noticing.
Getting to Victoria Peak for a view of Hong Kong and Kowloon and the islands is also very much a must thing to do. A public bus does leave from in front of Pier ^ at Central Pier on Hong Kong island and takes you to the top for $HK9.40 one way. Once up there you can pay $HK20 for the lookout with great 360 degree views which I say is recommended, though I also suggest taking a 40 minute walk in the opposite direction through the rolling hills for a great view of the islands surrounding Hong Kong Island.
Temple night Market at Jordan Street subway station is quite a okay place to pick up souvenirs, don't be afraid to barter down 20% as you will get the price that you want.
The Indian guys around Kowloon selling copy watches and tailored made suits will piss you off alot, be warned.
A good map of Hong Kong showing places is recommended, though there are street signes showing things and where they are, the signs will send you the long way around when there is a shorter way.
If up for drinking, most happy hours are 4 to 8pm or 5 to 9pm, you may find a couple with a happy hour before closing time. Irish Murphy's bar on Nathan Street has a happy hour between 4 and 8pm, the drinks are well priced from $HK35-70 for spirits/cocktails & international pints. It is a typical Irish bar though the service is quite slow, but nothing new for China. Delaney's Irish bar just around the corner ids the pick of the bars, though there is no happy hours. Big screen TVs showing live sporting events. Again drinks are in that $HK35-70 price bracket. I suggest happy hour it somewhere, then head out to dinner elshewhere, then after head to seven eleven convenience stores or welcome supermarkets to buy some wine or beer, drink it up and then head out. It is quite expensive to drink and go out in Honk Kong.
A trip to Disneyland HK is also a good place though I say it is not recommended. It is quite a small park. if you plan to get there at 11am and stay until 8pm for the start of the fireworks that is plenty. You do not even have to rush through the park in that time, just take it easy and you will find you will go back through things the second time. The shows are spread out during the day and are worth it. I have to say, if you are going there for just the rides, you will be wholly disappointed. After, also visiting the one in Anaheim Los Angeles, I will say Hong Kong Disneyland is just to give you the taste to visit the one in Florida or L.A. Getting there can be a hassle on the subway, even so it is the best way to go. There are three line changes which is a pain. For a meal or food at Disneyland be prepared to pay the price. Soft drinks are $HK20 for Nestea and Coca-Cola, and water ranges between $HK15-20. For a meal like butter chicken and rice of which I had myself, you are looking at $HK48. You can purchase alcohol any where as it is a family park. If you smoke, you can only smoke in certain areas.
All up admission into Disneyland HK will set you back $HK350 per adult.
Disneyland HK is a good free afternoon thing when you have nothing planned ie late evening flights, but again it is a hassle to get there, even so it is on the same small island as the airport, you still need to catch three trains.
If you need to store your luggage somewhere, if you did have a flight late at night, you can leave at the 'left luggage' counter in terminal two. For upto 24 hours it will cost you $HK50 per bag.
Now to the skyline shot of Shanghai which was suppose to be the highlight of my trip there, even so it was still impressing, but due to the work being carried out on the Bund, you are not able to get a descent view. I had to climb up on a cement wall to get a half descent shot.
You are able to go from one side of the river to the other side by paying 50rmb and that is travelling by a light rail train (Bund Sightseeing Travel Train) which goes under the river through a tunnel obviously. Though do not expect much, but it is quite a good laugh at what they tried to do. From there, it is around a 10 minute walk or so to the Jinmao Observatory 88 tower which is the tallest building in Shanghai and China at 340.1 metres standing 88 floors. It will take 45 seconds to travel upto the observatory deck. It will cost you 88rmb. You will swear by the tower with the big red ball is taller that is dominating the skyline more than any other building is much taller than the Jinmao tower but it aint.
To me I think Shanghai is a bit of a let down, with things quite overly priced compared to the rest of China hence why the wages are little bit higher there. Going out to dinner and also lunch is not like the rest of China, with the food not that good. If you are like me, and using Shanghai as a stopover for a few nights to break up your journey to Hong Kong, be aware to allow an extra 15 to 20 minutes to clear customs. You are more likely to catch the train T99 or T99B. Do not enter the main part of the station, just to the left of the entrance is the sign and gate for the train to Hong Kong. It is a long journey so it is best to have something to do, also good to travel with someone else, play a game of cards while having a few drinks (bottle of vodka does the trick with orange juice) and then finish up in the bar in the restaurant carriage, you are guaranteed to meet up with other foreigners as the train is full of foreigners. After this, this should be enough to send you asleep and before you know it you will awake when there is around an hour to go to get to Hong Kong. That is if the train staff do not wake you up wanting to strips your bed and get ready for their next journey. The train to catch again to Hong Kong is T99 departing at 18:24pm arriving into Hong Kong at 13:50pm the next day costing 458rmb for a hard sleeper.
On arrival into Hong Kong, you again have to clear customs, and will take you around 30 minutes to clear. It will feel more like you are in an airport rather than a railway station. A taxi from the railway station in the main part of the city around Nathan Street will set you back $HK50. though they will initially say more. You may also find you will have an over friendly taxi driver, they will suggest and help you with things but do not listen to them that much as they will say Hong Kong is unsafe and it aint. I got the feeling from my welcoming and other moments in Hong Kong that they did not welcome the handover that much and still do not. Many of the hostels are apart of guest houses. I suggest staying at the Kowloon New Hostel which is part of USA hostels, for a twin room with air-conditioning, TV and ensuite it will cost you $AUD26 per night per person. Though the rooms are quite small, but they are quite cozy and still are relaxing after a long day and evening touring HK and the surrounding islands. The staff there are also quite friendly, though the building does not look much from the outside or with in the corridors. The hostel is well situated with the airport express and the subway at its doors. The hostel is situated just minutes from bars, restaurants, the star ferry and many shops. The hostel is located in the Mirador mansions complex.
The subway in Hong Kong starts from $HK8.50 even for a very small journey, and are quite busy during peak times. While in Hong Kong, day trips to the outlying islands are strongly recommended.
The island of lantau is great for beaching. The island of Macau has only the one beach, and it is a fair way out of the city, probably a hour on public transport, and the it aint worth going to, the beach is very dirty with strong rips. Cheung Chau has two very popular beaches and are probably the best for beaching and swimming, and finally peng chau has a beach but it aint good for swimming though it is around a twnety minute walk from the ferry.
With the prices of getting to them, they are quite cheap. Going to Macau it will cost you $HK132 each way with First ferry departing from the Kowloon side. With Cheung Chau it will cost you $HK22.50 one way, Lantau $HK13.50 one way and Peng Chau $8.50 one way.
As mentioned if beaching Cheung Chau is the pick of the islands to go to, though if you take the wrong turn coming off the ferry you will have atleast an hours walk to the beaches though it aint a waste of time as it is quite a scenic and lovely walk, but you better have a bottle of water with you, you will be sweating it out. If you walk straight ahead coming off the ferry, you will only have a 5 minute walk or so to the main two beaches.
If you are used to the sun in China, BE AWARE of the sun in Hong Kong and around, it is much more stingy and dangerous, you will burn quite quickly and without noticing.
Getting to Victoria Peak for a view of Hong Kong and Kowloon and the islands is also very much a must thing to do. A public bus does leave from in front of Pier ^ at Central Pier on Hong Kong island and takes you to the top for $HK9.40 one way. Once up there you can pay $HK20 for the lookout with great 360 degree views which I say is recommended, though I also suggest taking a 40 minute walk in the opposite direction through the rolling hills for a great view of the islands surrounding Hong Kong Island.
Temple night Market at Jordan Street subway station is quite a okay place to pick up souvenirs, don't be afraid to barter down 20% as you will get the price that you want.
The Indian guys around Kowloon selling copy watches and tailored made suits will piss you off alot, be warned.
A good map of Hong Kong showing places is recommended, though there are street signes showing things and where they are, the signs will send you the long way around when there is a shorter way.
If up for drinking, most happy hours are 4 to 8pm or 5 to 9pm, you may find a couple with a happy hour before closing time. Irish Murphy's bar on Nathan Street has a happy hour between 4 and 8pm, the drinks are well priced from $HK35-70 for spirits/cocktails & international pints. It is a typical Irish bar though the service is quite slow, but nothing new for China. Delaney's Irish bar just around the corner ids the pick of the bars, though there is no happy hours. Big screen TVs showing live sporting events. Again drinks are in that $HK35-70 price bracket. I suggest happy hour it somewhere, then head out to dinner elshewhere, then after head to seven eleven convenience stores or welcome supermarkets to buy some wine or beer, drink it up and then head out. It is quite expensive to drink and go out in Honk Kong.
A trip to Disneyland HK is also a good place though I say it is not recommended. It is quite a small park. if you plan to get there at 11am and stay until 8pm for the start of the fireworks that is plenty. You do not even have to rush through the park in that time, just take it easy and you will find you will go back through things the second time. The shows are spread out during the day and are worth it. I have to say, if you are going there for just the rides, you will be wholly disappointed. After, also visiting the one in Anaheim Los Angeles, I will say Hong Kong Disneyland is just to give you the taste to visit the one in Florida or L.A. Getting there can be a hassle on the subway, even so it is the best way to go. There are three line changes which is a pain. For a meal or food at Disneyland be prepared to pay the price. Soft drinks are $HK20 for Nestea and Coca-Cola, and water ranges between $HK15-20. For a meal like butter chicken and rice of which I had myself, you are looking at $HK48. You can purchase alcohol any where as it is a family park. If you smoke, you can only smoke in certain areas.
All up admission into Disneyland HK will set you back $HK350 per adult.
Disneyland HK is a good free afternoon thing when you have nothing planned ie late evening flights, but again it is a hassle to get there, even so it is on the same small island as the airport, you still need to catch three trains.
If you need to store your luggage somewhere, if you did have a flight late at night, you can leave at the 'left luggage' counter in terminal two. For upto 24 hours it will cost you $HK50 per bag.
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